Hounding Morocco Pt. 2
On Marrakech and the productivity of getting a bit lost
Hello friends!
I’ve spent the last few weeks settling back into routine and really enjoying a long stretch of time at home. I’m moving apartments in the coming weeks after three years in the same spot, and while I’m overwhelmed with the task of moving in NYC, I am beyond excited! I have quite a bit of travel coming up in July and am looking forward to sharing more from that as well.
In the meantime, it felt like the right time to write a bit more about my travels this past spring: Marrakech Edition.
Whenever anyone has asked me about this trip, I have simply raved about how much I fell in love with the country of Morocco. Its customs, its delicious food, but most importantly, it’s incredibly kind and hospitable people. I’m itching to go back already.
If there was one place that surprised me most on this trip, it was Marrakech. And honestly, I thought I knew exactly what to expect, but it threw me for a loop in the best possible way.
I tried to trust my gut while designing this portion of the trip, but inevitably fell prey to a tourist trap and cliche here and there–Marrakech made clear, pretty quickly, that the intuition was right and the planning was the problem.
After a 2.5 hour drive from the coast, we arrived in Marrakech with our taxi driver, plus a new friend–the largest daddy long legs we had ever seen. Crawling right over Hannah’s head like it was eager to get into the medina. Our driver laughed as we huddled in a corner, shrieking, before we rolled down a window and let the beast fly into the wind. A warm welcome.
Our next warm welcome came from a rap on the car window as we pulled up beside the medina. With a swift word to the driver, our bags were plopped into a rolling cart and wheeled into the medina, as we trailed behind our courier, noting cute shops in each alleyway during the ten minute walk towards our riad. As we dipped left past a convenience stand, I thought to myself, “hm, it really is in an alleyway as described.” Little did we know we had another winding, five minute walk through the back channels of the medina before arriving at an unmarked door, adorned only with a small painting of a dog. Apparently, we had arrived at Riad Dar Rbaa Laroub (also known as Riad Jean Noel).
I had done my due diligence research about this place: an institution, one of the first riads in the medina, a haven for artists and designers alike, owned by the enigmatic Jean Noel. Most notably, it was said to be full of charm, all for $75 a night per room. I took a leap. And here I was at an unmarked door thinking…”shit.”
But we were swiftly rewarded. The doors swung open to reveal a private garden estate, unfolding between arches of marble and tumbling greenery. A tiny terrier scuttered around our feet as Jean Noel, the riad’s enigmatic owner, guided us into his office. We were offered mint tea as he sat down to hand-draw us a map of Marrakech, including little pins of his favorite shops and restaurants. He also informed us that he’d taken the liberty of upgrading up to the suite–a grand, though equally rustic and charming, apartment-esque room, with two bedrooms, plus a living and dining area. Our tour ended on the rooftop terrace, at which point I had completely fallen in love. Every corner of the roof was blooming with plants and flowers, spilling over pergolas and small terraces perfect for gathering, with soaring and endless views of the rooftops and towers of the medina.
We set out feeling satisfied and on cloud nine–everything felt perfect; wandering endlessly, weaving down alleys, tucking into shops full of slippers, glassware, ceramics, leather bags and more. The more rogue we went, the better things we found.
Our first hours wandering the souks were an excellent training period, and you quickly get your bearings on how to best navigate this crazy, bustling maze and all of the characters within it. People are so tough on Moroccans on social media, but I found them genuinely lovely and never pushy –we treated shopowners like new friends rather than salespeople, joked around, bartered, and always landed somewhere fair. I think our respect for their culture, dressing modestly even if not overly so, had something to do with it.
And when it comes to bartering, go low. Very low! We got completely fleeced and really only figured it out fully in the last days. As our luggage was wheeled out of the medina, I found myself dipping into a few final shops, grabbing something off a shelf and going “200 dirhams” “no 400,” “no, 200,” “no, 300,” “no, 200,” before a final: “ok, habibi, 200.” I even got a few rouge pots for free because they were impressed with my stubbornness. My friend Hannah had been a great bargaining coach.
Honestly, I had some of the funniest interactions of my life in these souks, cracking jokes with the owners and bartering. I’ll never forget when a random man emerged into a somewhat quiet alley we were shopping down, pointed at us with a loud “HA HA HA,” before running down another alley of shops. We followed him, of course, eager to know the reason for his mocking. Turns out it was just a very clever and innocent way to lure us into his shop. We all had to have a laugh about that one.
There was no shortage of good things in Marrakech– shopping at Kitan, pasta lunch at La Famille, drinks at Petanque Social Club– but the best of it was the parts least planned.
For example, on our second-to-last day, we decided we may be ready for a break from the souks and booked a day pass to Farrasha Farmhouse, about 45 minutes from the medina and well worth the journey. It is a stunning property, with a long lap pool and plenty of greenery to make each lounge area completely private. They’ll bring drinks to your chairs, and you can enjoy lunch in the orchard–we inhaled fresh salads, ravioli, plus an amazing roast chicken and fries. The day pass and lunch were $60 per person total, so a true steal. After lunch, we lounged by the pool, sipping refreshing picantes in the desert heat and chatting, until the afternoon hours led into evening, and it was time to return to the city.
Dinner at our riad that night, much like in Essaouira, was superb. With no menu or no clue what to expect, we ascended the winding stone stairs up to the roof, sipping on Moroccan white wine on ice as the sun slipped lower towards the horizon. We anticipated that we could expect amazing food from the sweet elderly women working in the kitchen, as each breakfast had outdone the last, but were blown away by dinner. Our meal started with five small bowls of dips and salads–shaved carrots, beets and cheese, labneh, pureed eggplant, and more–followed by the most delicious chicken and olive tagine and a plush mound of couscous. We were beyond content even before she brought out two tiny mint and strawberry smoothies with tea for dessert. The true cherry on top of this meal, however, was our server. He spoke absolutely no English, but he managed to communicate with us perfectly, purely through his kindness and gestures of hospitality.
On our final morning, we desperately made laps through the souks to find anything left missing on our shopping lists. Well, desperately for me, who had left behind a pair of wonderful leather slides I meant to get for my boyfriend on day one. At the time, I was certain I’d find plenty more, as I’d spent too much money already in my first four hours on the ground. After about 800 laps, I could no longer tell north from south, and couldn’t find anything similar to what I’d seen. Hungry, tired, with no shoes in hand, we decided it was time to resign ourselves to our fate and find a quick bite before heading back to catch our taxi to the airport. After being pointed to another tourist trap by a shop owner, we politely thanked him but decided to find something on our own. We spotted a small family sitting outside an otherwise empty cafe. When we approached and signaled that we’d like to have some food, they sweetly pointed to their skillets in the back, indicating they had two types of msemen they could offer: simple eggs, and mint tea. “Yes, yes, yes, thank you,” we agreed. In about three minutes, the man delivered the most delicious honey and then paprika and cheese msemens, a simple omelet, and a pot of Moroccan mint tea. We handed him our 40 dirhams–equivalent of $4–with a smile, and sat down to enjoy what was arguably the best meal of the entire trip.
I guess that’s the message here. Don’t try too hard to plan Marrakech. Just let yourself immerse in it, find what actually fits, and the places that are meant for you will inevitably find you. Even if you have to bargain a bit.
Please see more detailed recommendations below, and I’ll be back soon with a recap from Mallorca!
STAY
Riad Dar Rbaa Laroub | Where we stayed and a true diamond in the rough. But it is not for everyone - it is rustic and more humble, but overflowing with character and charm. The food and location cannot be beat. If you are someone who enjoys history and experience, it could be for you – if you are someone who enjoys traditional luxury and service, I’d steer you away from this riad. But I loved it and will be back.
L’Hotel Marrakech | Up next on my list when I’m ready for something a touch more upscale. It’s stunning and still reads more riad than hotel, which I love. The feel is intimate but the rooms are very nice, and I’m itching to have a martini at their gorgeous bar.
Riad L’Orangerie | My parents stayed here on their recent trip to Marrakech and only had positive things to say. It skews a bit larger, like a boutique hotel, but has a beautiful pool and restaurant, plus more traditional hotel service.
EAT & DRINK
Riads | Generally, most of them are going to serve delicious food. Trust the locals, and you are unlikely to be disappointed.
La Mamounia | Not a dinner spot, but I highly recommend their terrace bar for a special pre-dinner drink. The view overlooking the gardens at golden hour, plus the free snacks, is unmatched. Next time I’ll get a nightcap at their sleek Churchill Bar.
Petanque Social Club | If I were a twenty-something living in Marrakech, I’d be posted up here every weekend. We went on a Tuesday night, so predictably more tame but still buzzing. On weekends, they have DJ sets. It’s a rather hidden, but well-rewarded experience under the tealight-lined trees. Excellent negronis.
El Fenn | I’d really only recommend it for a quick sunset drink. An expensive tourist trap with slow service. And definitely skip dinner here, it’s pricey, and the food was just okay.
La Famille | Amazing, women-run restaurant in the medina that is only open for lunch. I recommend securing a reservation. They don’t sell alcohol, like many places in the medina, but have delicious teas and tonics. Expect excellent but surprising pastas, salads, and flatbreads. The dips and bread were honestly the highlight!
Sahbi Sahbi | The food was delicious - wine, tagines, all of it - but the ambience fell a little flat for me (to be fair, it was a Tuesday). Request a seat at the chef's bar either way. Another fantastic women-led restaurant, this one in the trendier Gueliz area.
Plus61 | European-Australian food (whatever that means), great for shared plates with farm-fresh ingredients in a lovely modern space.
Yazel | Jean Noel recommended this small Lebanese cafe, which is located right next to Le Jardin Secret.
Terrasse Zen Kesh | Traditional Moroccan restaurant in the medina with a lighter, airy design.
Dar Yacout | I didn’t make it here, but it came heavily recommended. A traditional institution with live music and great for an intimate or fun group dinner.
Kesh Cup | Sometimes you just want an iced latte or a matcha when you’re abroad. With locations all over the medina, this is your fix.
DO
YSL Museum & Jardin Majorelle | Worth doing together — they're directly across the street from one another. A lovely morning escape from the medina, and both are beautiful and very interesting to explore. You’ll definitely need to buy tickets in advance, but you don’t need to show up any earlier than your entry time or you’ll just end up waiting. It’s walkable from the medina, though not exactly a scenic stroll.
Madrasa Ben Youssef | Stunning 14th-century Islamic school and one of the most beautiful buildings in Marrakech. Free to wander and easy to combine with a morning in the souks, but you won’t need a lot of time there - we went early and it was already quite crowded.
Le Jardin Secret | A hidden garden palace in the heart of the medina and a peaceful escape. Conveniently located next to Yazel if you want to make a morning of it, but I wouldn’t consider it an absolute essential.
Mellah | The old Jewish quarter, quieter and less touristed than the souks. Worth a wander if you want a breather.
Sunset over the medina | An essential, no matter which rooftop you choose to enjoy it from. Sublime.
SHOP
Kitan | Japanese-meets Moroccan textiles and tailoring. They have ready-to-wear pieces, but you can also design anything custom with them. Prices felt reasonable for the quality.
Topolina | Boutique run by French designer with a love for bold prints, color and vintage cuts. Expect printed coats, patterned trousers, scarves, and shoes. A family-run label with both women's and men's collections.
Corinne Bensimon Maison | Handmade homewares, ceramics, embroidered linens, and the occasional women’s piece — all with a very French eye on Moroccan craft. Clean lines, beautiful colors, nothing that feels like a souvenir. Multiple locations in the medina, including Dar el Bacha.
Different Marrakech | Great concept boutique in the medina, we both found some gems here!
Honestly, most of the shopping is in souks rather than nameable boutiques. Put in the time, and you’ll find your own gems. If you’d like any more specific recommendations, don’t hesitate to reach out.
I’ll be back soon with a short and sweet guide to Mallorca.
Xx,
The Experience Hound
Woof - experience hound is back.
Just read part II - love it!!