The Hounding Guide to Lisbon
The colorful capital of rich history, natural wine, and overall charm. Lisbon checks all the boxes.
Hi friends, I’m back!
I hope everyone had a lovely weekend and got out for some much-needed sunshine. I just returned from a long weekend in Mexico City, and I cannot say enough good things about the city and the entire experience. I’ll be sure to share my guide very soon!
In the meantime, I’m thrilled to finally be sharing a guide to one of the most extraordinary cities in the world…Lisbon!!! Sure, I do tend to rave about a handful of cities, but Lisbon truly captured my heart when I visited last summer, and it’s one of those places I hope to return to time and time again throughout my life. Lisbon is an underrated city, and also one of Europe’s oldest, pre-dating Rome.
When you travel around Lisbon, you can feel the synergy between the city’s rich, ancient history and beautiful landscape, as well as its creative, young, and constantly evolving culture. As a natural wine lover, I found this city to be heaven, as much of the natural wine movement originated in Portugal. It’s a beautiful place, where you can walk (much to the chagrin of your shins) up and down steep cobblestoned streets, pop into one-of-a-kind local businesses, and taste the most delicious food, all while catching glimpses of the sparkling blue Atlantic through every window and alley. I know a few friends who will be venturing to Lisbon or elsewhere in Portugal this summer, so this guide feels timely, and I enjoyed pulling it together. As always, let me know if I can help with any questions or travel plans - I’m always happy to give personal recommendations!
STAY
If you want to wake up, open your windows to the most gorgeous views of the city, hang out at a tiny courtyard pool, and have the most delicious complimentary breakfasts, Casa Balthazar is a no-brainer. The hotel and spa’s location in northern Bairro Alto is convenient for exploration, the staff are all incredibly kind and welcoming, and the energy here was convivial and relaxing—bonus points for being relatively affordable.
Another fantastic option is Casa des Janelas Com Vista, a chic and fun little boutique hotel hidden in the back alleys of Bairro Alto. It’s a proper bed and breakfast, and the affordable price reflects that. However, the rooms are clean and beautiful, and the lobby is a great place to hang out and make your own drink (honor bar—we love it!). The location of this hotel is also top-notch, and it is a perfect starting point for wherever your day may take you.
Bairro Alto Hotel is a traditional five-star hotel on the pricier side, but central to everything you need with excellent rooms and fantastic service. People rave about the views from the hotel’s rooftop bar.
EAT
Tricky’s
Unless you’re new here, you may know I tend to speak in superlatives—but this (truly) is one of my favorite dining experiences in the world! Tricky’s is an unstuffy, fun, and creative restaurant in Sao Paolo. They blast top-notch music, the crowd is energetic, and the food is incredible. Snag a bar seat to watch their [very handsome] chefs whip up each plate and explain the ingredients.
Boavista Social Club
Boavista Social Club is a trendy natural wine bar that turns into a buzzy and fun going-out destination later at night. Everyone here is fun and friendly, the drinks are fantastic, and we had the best night out. Boavista is great on its own but especially perfect following dinner at Tricky’s, which is just down the road.
Comida Independente
Unique wine, charcuterie, and shopping all in one: my dream. I cannot recommend this spot enough, and you must swing by here for an afternoon drink and snack while in Lisbon. Follow their staff’s wine advice! They know what’s up and are an excellent time to chat with.
Senhor Uva
Senhor Uva is a bit out of the way in residential Jardim de Estrela, but it is certainly worth the trek. The Quebec-born chefs here serve rotating seasonal menus with a creative edge, and their locally sourced, sustainable wine menu is unbeatable.
Prado Merceria
I once accidentally made a reservation here instead of their more formal dinner spot, Prado, but I have zero regrets. Prado Merceria is a gourmet deli, restaurant, and wine bar with only a few small tables for dinner. It is the perfect place for a casual, breezy meal on a steep alley below the castle. The food is nothing short of fantastic for a rather humble little place.
Taberna da Rua dos Flores
Taberna da Rua dos Flores is the place to have an authentic Portuguese meal. It’s an intimate spot with no-frills interiors and a timeless feel where you can find traditional tapas, dishes, and excellent house wine. Don’t be afraid to ask what’s best on the menu - the risk is worth the reward.
My last note on food is about Pasteis de Nata - the famous Portuguese custard tarts. They are delicious and exceeded my expectations, but almost everyone will tell you to seek out one or two famous spots where you should get these (and consequentially wait in a long line). I will tell you you don’t need to. My favorites throughout the trip were at hotel breakfasts, tiny cafés, and even at a roadside stand! They’re the national treat, and everyone has a worthy rendition (but always go for the burnt ones).
DRINK
Holy Wine
If I go missing, I’ve moved to a charming European city to set up a two-seater natural wine bar on a quiet, cobblestoned street. Don’t look for me! Just kidding, but definitely swing by Holy Wine while you’re exploring the western part of the city. The staff will help you select a bottle or glass you’ll enjoy while you people-watch on the sidewalk. This place is tiny, quirky, and one-of-a-kind.
Toca da Raposa
Toca da Raposa is a hidden gem for a great craft cocktail without the hectic crowd. It’s a centrally located little hole-in-the-wall with the sleekest stone interiors, great music, and amazing cocktails. The recipes are deceptively complex and may include a mixture of Mezcal, Coriander, Kimchi, and Pineapple, to name a few.
Insavaciel + Ippolito & Maciste
These two wine bars are rather similar but equally worth visiting for their endless organic wine menus and pleasant atmospheres. Scraggly wooden chairs and tables dot the sidewalk and wrap around the corner, perfect for relaxing on a warm summer night.
SEE + DO
Exploration is always the baseline motto for my travels, with some intentional sights sprinkled in, and that especially applies to visiting Lisbon. A great day here might begin with a stroll through historic Bairro Alto, following the streets uphill to look at the beautiful hillside views. Flow through Principé Real, where you’ll find some of the best shopping and farmer’s markets. Then grab a coffee and a Pastel de Nata before heading downhill towards Saõ Paolo (stop at Holy Wine and Comida Independente along the way). Or follow the route in reverse! Each and every cobblestoned alley is worth a peek, so let your curiosity be the guide, and you won’t be disappointed.
Feira da Ladra is a world-famous flea market on the eastern side of the city. It's worth a visit if you love local markets and thrifting. The market has mountains of vintage clothes, tiles, and homewares, and it’s easy to get lost there for hours. On the way to this part of town, check out the historic Castelo de Saõ Jorge, hit the market, and then explore the city’s colorful, oldest neighborhood of Alfama as the sun goes down.
I didn’t get down to the water much while I was in Lisbon, but next time I’m here, I’d like to take the quick, twenty-minute ferry for a beautiful sunset dinner at Restaurante Porto Final. A day trip to Sintra, where you can explore the gardens and color-soaked castle, is also on my bucket list. I have many further spots and a map saved to my Step profile (along with other city recommendations), and I am always here for pointers and personalized guides!
This was quite long, so I plan to follow up soon with a brief guide to coastal towns such as Comporta and Melides.
I hope everyone has a fantastic week, and weekend filled with great food, great conversation, and great hounding!
Xx,
The Experience Hound
Lisbon has a top place in my heart - I love it so much. Thai guide is brilliant - thank you! Saving for my next trip 👊🏻