The Hounding Guide to London
The best city in the World (well, the world across the pond)
The London Guide
I absolutely love London. It’s so vast and diverse with no shortage of neighborhoods, shops, and cuisines to explore. I love the British accents and that dry British humor. I like when they make a bit of fun of their American friends. I love a G&T, and I really love a Sunday Roast.
This is by no means a conclusive nor definitive guide to this incredible city, but it’s what I am able to share from my own experiences. It includes options for multiple budgets, neighborhoods, and tastes. I have visited on various occasions and contexts, with a different budget for each (family trip, school, mother-daughter, sister-sister), so my recommendations can fit into any trip you have coming up. Here are my suggestions to you as a twenty-six year old who hates overhead lighting, and loves a natural wine or crisp negroni to accompany some seasonal rotating plates.
Hence forth:
STAY
The Cadogan, Kensington ($$$)
I stayed here on a visit a few years back, and absolutely loved it. It’s a classic establishment with true old-school hospitality and nestled in prime Chelsea between Harrods/Harvey Nichols and King’s Road. Personally, this was not my favorite location for hidden gem restaurants and wandering down small streets, but it is sure the place to be if you’re hoping to hit up all the major stores and nicer dining establishments. The included breakfast is delicious as is the lovely concierge, Roger.
Number Sixteen, South Kensington ($$$)
The most beautiful little boutique hotel by Firmdale (The Crosby Street Hotel in NYC is one of theirs) situated amongst three townhouses in Kensington. Just a stone’s throw away from the Victoria & Albert, it’s a great place to cozy up if you’re looking to hit museums, shops, and Hyde Park. Rooms are chic and cozy, service is immaculate, the garden breakfast is a sweet setup, and there’s an honor bar - my favorite.
Redchurch Townhouse, Shoreditch ($$$)
If you’ve been to London before, it’s a great excuse to venture a bit and check out more of East London. Shoreditch is surely 2016 Williamsburg’s cousin (in a good way!) and while the Shoreditch Soho House is nice, it’s a bit of a madhouse at the epicenter of the area. Instead, stay at the newly erected townhouse intended for extra space and a bit more serenity. You can still access the Soho House just two blocks away, including the gym. Located atop Cecconis and tucked down an alleyway, this little boutique hotel is an ideal East London outpost for shopping, thrifting, and exploring. We loved staying here!
The Hoxton, Shoreditch ($$$)
Another great East London option. I’ve looked into staying here a few times, and I think Hoxton Hotels are just reliable and great value. Expect the lobby to be filled with work-from-home Londoners, but that contributes to the warm, communal feeling of these hotels. The one in Shoreditch is nice and very central if you’re looking to be situated further East.
The Pelican, Paddington ($$)
Okay, so I have yet to stay here - but it was almost the spot I chose for my most recent visit! This hotel is in Paddington, so it’s easy to pop over to Notting Hill or Marylebone, and the place is just adorable. With clean, bleached wood interiors, and nice, spacious rooms, plus a lively bar and pub down below - it’s an ideal spot and will be my choice for the next visit!
Some more stays below to check out:
Ham Yard Hotel, Picadilly/Soho ($$$$)
Dorset Square Hotel, Marlyebone ($$$)
The NoMad London, Covent Garden ($$$)
The Soho Hotel, Soho ($$$)
Artist’s Residence, Pimlico ($$)
The Laslett, Notting Hill ($$)
The Portobello Hotel, Notting Hill ($$)
The Princess Royal, Notting Hill ($$)
The Zetter, Clerkenwell ($$)
The Rookery, Clerkenwell ($$)
EAT
Jamavar, Mayfair ($$$)
Jamavar is crudely slept on. Honestly, I have yet to try Dishoom and I can never get into Gymkhana (if you can, go for me), but this place really gets the job done in my opinion. The Indian food is spectacularly good, as are the cocktails and service. Interiors are opulent but warm and inviting, and you’ll notice many Londoners having family dinner here. You’d be mistaken to skip the prawns, sea bass curry, or any of the delicious chutneys.
Little Duck the Picklery, Clerkenwell ($$)
I adore this sweet little restaurant in Dalston, an offshoot of Soho’s well-known Ducksoup. Be sure to sit at the Chef’s Counter, which is not separated from but is one big island which essentially encircles the Chef station; adorned with flowers, produce, and more. It’s so warm, inviting, and the food really shocked me: truly incredible. The bread & butter are actually a standout, and you mustn’t skip the roast pumpkin or anything with their sublime housemade sausage. Incredibly cozy, quiet, and low key. Perfect for a smaller group or date night, and a reminder that the most humble-looking restaurants are sometimes the most likely to blow you away.
BRAT, Shoreditch ($$$)
This place is unbelievable. It’s been on the scene for quite some time, so I had heard of it but had never made a reservation until my last visit. On a Saturday night, we decided at the eleventh hour to put our names down and thirty minutes later found ourselves at the cozy bar (which actually faces the dining room rather than a mixologist’s station) with the nicest waiters pouring us great wine and guiding us through the hefty, carnivorous menu. The Scallops really knocked it out of the park, and the Roast Duck with Confit Apricot and Duck Liver Pâté really wowed me.
Walmer Castle ($$)
The cutest, and perhaps most stylish, pub I have ever been to. Downstairs is ultra cozy, with a bar and fireplace, while the upstairs is spacious and beautifully designed (I wanted to buy everything off their walls!). Of course make note that it is a pub, so drinks are simple but the food is good - oh, and their Sunday Roast is incredible. If you’re traveling with a group, they have a lovely private dining room tucked in halfway up the stairs. It’s the perfect spot to stop in for a drink or bring friends and lounge around for a longer meal.
Colbert, Kensington ($$$)
I’ve never heard anyone else mention Colbert, but if you are in search of that cozy-yet-chic brasserie-serving-shrimp-cocktail-and-martinis kinda spot found almost more easily in NYC than in Paris (sue me!), look no further. Sidle up to the bar with a cocktail or opt for the inviting, vintage-poster-filled dining room for a comforting meal with great Kensington people watching.
Bambi, South Hackney ($$)
On the more lively side, Bambi is a relatively new restaurant and the perfect spot to book with a group for a fun night on the town. The concept is centered around their stellar collection of vinyl, and they’ve got a DJ spinning tunes from the back bar. But don’t mistake this for simply a bar - know that it’s a really cool restaurant with fabulous natural wines, great food, sleek interiors, and a crowd who you can tell knows what they’re doing. Don’t miss the braised butter beans (even my bean-averse sister conceded to this recommendation and was impressed).
Wild by Tart, Belgravia ($$)
This restaurant in Belgravia is a truly beautiful spot. I had been following along with Tart London (a quite cool female-owned catering business, follow them - they post great recipes) for some time and was very excited to try the restaurant when I was recently in town. They have the most delicious, unique cocktails and inventive dishes that are, for the most part, locally sourced. Must-orders include the pickled vegetables to start, Blood Orange and Kohlrabi Salad, Aubergine, and whatever Agnolotti is on the menu.
Rita’s Dining, Soho ($$)
A certain favorite here, and I love it for lunch or dinner. Rita’s is an “American” style restaurant and does not stumble, from start to end. Their Green Margarita (El Madrina) has become one of my favorite drinks of all time. While they offer no bar to actually sit at, and it’s rather tiny, the atmosphere is divine we scraped all of our plates clean. Must-orders are the Heritage Pumpkin (to die for) and the crunchy Caesar Salad. I’ve heard the fried chicken is pretty spectacular, as well.
Oranj, Shoreditch ($$)
I was instantly enticed by this funky wine bar in Shoreditch, discreetly tucked away behind a black garage door. It’s low-lit with great music and, surprise (!), a great selection of orange wines (they offer other wines and cocktails as well). Great for a fun dinner or just stopping in for drinks.
Rochelle Canteen, Shoreditch ($$)
Tucked into a little walled garden in Shoreditch, you’ll find Rochelle Canteen, where you’ll dine in the cutest little sun-room/tent on served simple but delicious seasonal plates. Vegetables and high-quality meats are the focus here. I think it’s best enjoyed at lunch.
Jikoni, Marylebone ($$$)
Jikoni is the most charming Indian restaurant hidden amongst the neighborhood’s best shopping. Guests dine along block-printed banquettes, cushioned by coordinating colorful pillows, and pastel walls framed by large windows. Take into account the simple but filling Indian-fusion menu, and this makes for the perfect spot for an airy, post-shopping lunch!
Ottolenghi, Various Locations ($$)
We all know the name, but not everyone may know that Ottolenghi has quite a few restaurants in London - and I actually prefer his batch of cute, prepared-food cafés over the fancier spots. You can make a combo box with a protein, a few delicious sides like Tahini Cauliflower with Pomegranate Seeds or Smoked Aubergine with Labneh, add some grains and accoutrements, and eat-in or takeaway. Perfect for an easy, healthy, flavorful lunch whilst strolling about. Locations include Notting Hill, Kensington, Marylebone, Belgravia, and more.
Other favorites include:
Jolene Redchurch/Newington Green for coffee and pastries.
Daylesford Organic for a midday snack, lunch, and takeaway goods.
Flor and Pophams for gorgeous pastries.
Granger + Co. for a healthier, Aussie-style brunch in Notting Hill.
Next on my list:
Berenjak, Soho ($$): Looks incredible, hoping for better luck on my next visit with their extended summer seating.
Manteca, Shoreditch ($$): Dying to try this chic Italian restaurant that so many have recommended to me!
Socca Bistro, Mayfair ($$$): A gorgeously decorated Italian spot.
Sohalia, Shoreditch ($$): Lebanese sharing plates and natural wines.
Saltine, Islington ($$): Daytime coffee shop that serves seasonal small plates by night.
Toklas, Temple ($$): Mediterranean food near many of the museums & galleries, and has outdoor seating.
Campania, Shoreditch ($$): Cozy, classic Italian on Columbia Road.
Fallow, Marlyebone ($$$): Nicer spot with inventive plates, but I just really want the Fig Leaf Negroni (that’s one I can’t make myself I fear).
The Baring Arms ($): Cozy but elevated pub.
Maggie Jones’s, Kensington ($$): Old-school English establishment.
Brawn, Shoreditch ($$): Neighborhood spot on Columbia Road.
Sessions Arts Club, Clerkenwell ($$$): Beautiful food in a converted former arts club.
Crispin/Bar Crispin ($$$): Sister spots serving up inventive small plates and natural wines.
Caravel, Regent’s Canal ($$): This restaurant is actually on a boat, and looks like the perfectly intimate spot for summer.
SHOP
Liberty London, Soho: Of course
Harvey Nichols, Kensington: The best, most stylish selection with half the crowd
Selfridges, Mayfair: Again, of course
Rixo, Marylebone & King’s Road: The coolest printed dresses and eccentric accessories
Finley’s Wine, Haggerston: Top-notch selection of wines, let them guide you on the best!
Dover Street Market, Covent Garden: Always fun to walk through
Burro e Salvia, Shoreditch: A great place to buy delicious homemade pastas and sauces
Portobello Road, Notting Hill: Prioritize shops over street vendors, they have better quality, and make sure you bargain at the famous block print shop!
Soane Britain: Lovely home store chock-full of all the hand-blocked prints
Howe London: Find amazing kitchenware and ceramics here
Columbia Flower Market: So pretty and fun to check out particularly during the summer
Marylebone High Street: The best stores; Manchester Street is great for men’s shopping
La Portegna, Marylebone: Beautiful leather goods, perfect for gifts & you can have any initials embossed
Robert Kime, Kensington: My favorite home store to poke around
Trilogy Antiques, Tetbury: Beautiful finds here for the home
MISC./TRAVEL TIPS
If you haven't been to London before, of course make sure to hit major stops like Buckingham Palace, the British Museum, Tate Modern, and the Victoria & Albert Museum. A personal favorite is the Serpentine Gallery off King’s Road, where they have really fun and wild exhibitions.
Soho is great for shopping of course but the crowds can get overwhelming, so I suggest you hit your spots and then escape to the quieter streets (Liberty right over to Rita’s), or just audit to King’s Road. I like Marylebone best for strolling in and out of little shops, followed by a drink at Chiltern Firehouse (try for a spot by the bar!). Notting Hill is lovely and has some great spots for shopping in the late afternoon (perhaps a drink at Walmer Castle before heading to Gold or Dorian for Dinner).
The tube is so easy, so definitely don’t be intimidated; it’s much nicer and safer than the NYC subway. Buses are clean and reliable as well, plus sitting on the top floor gives you a great view as you drive through the city. I love those black cabs so I prefer to take those over Ubers, but they get pricey so they are best used at night or when you’re alone.
Ok, phew, I’m done! Save this all for your next trip, or if you have one coming, up feel free to reach out to me - everyone has their own taste, so I’m happy to help give recommendations best suited to your travels and help in any way I can with planning.
Xx,
The Experience Hound