The Hounding Guide to Paris (+ a 72 hour itinerary)
The most fabulously charming city isn't all that far away, so take this as a friendly reminder that you deserve a visit to Paris in the near future.
Everybody loves Paris. How could you not? With it’s gorgeous architecture, hot-and-cold locals, array of amazing food, and undeniable charm - there’s truly nothing that beats a long weekend in this city.
If you’re coming from the East Coast, remember that it can take you just as long to get to Paris for a quick weekend as it would to get to L.A. But half of that weekend in L.A. you’ll spend stuck in traffic…so a quick trip across the pond for a proper croissant seems like the best answer to me…
I have been to Paris a handful of times and in various circumstances. My family traveled to France when I was just three, and memories of all the colors and sounds at Jardins des Tuileries have stuck with me. I spent three and a half weeks there in high school with my French class, and lived with a lovely Parisian family just blocks from the Eiffel Tower. The drinking age in France is sixteen, as were we, and we reveled in the opportunity to drink 10 euro bottles of wine from le supermarché in the park. I visited with my mom in college after a school program in London, and for the first time I found which museums I actually enjoyed, realized the unique home shopping, and ate some truly memorable meals. I have since been back a few times with friends, and have discovered over time just why and how much I love this city. Everyone’s travel preferences differ, so take what you will from my recommendations, as well as the itinerary I have included at the very bottom.
And, no I am not the world expert on Paris travel…but you’ve trusted me with my travel tips thus far. So let’s give this a go, shall we…
STAY
Hôtel du Temps
We stayed here on my most recent visit to Paris, and while it’s not the Four Seasons, it suited perfectly fine and I appreciated it’s charm. The lobby is tiny, as are the rooms, but they are clean and relaxing, plus you are located nearby to a handful of my favorite food spots and a quick walk to both Montmarte and Le Marais. This hotel is fairly kind to the budget. Request a room on a higher floor for a wonderful view.
Le Pigalle
Not far away from du Temps, this boutique hotel is also on the more affordable end, but is perfectly simple and chic. There’s a bit more going on in the lobby here, so if you’re planning to hang around the hotel at all, it’s a great pick.
Hôtel Récamier
I love this little boutique hotel tucked into a church courtyard in prime Saint Germain. It is a nice, mid-price point, breakfast is included, and you’re just steps away from some of the best food, shopping, and sightseeing on the left bank. The rooms are small but luxurious, and the hotel staff is very attentive.
Hôtel Le Grand Mazarin
Absolutely obsessed with this chic hotel in the southernmost corner of Le Marais, the interiors are simply gorgeous and if I were ever to design a hotel it would look something like this. The rooms are breathtaking, with vintage tapestries, wallpaper, and pops of color abound. There’s an even in indoor pool for a post-exploration dip.
Of course, Paris has no shortage of amazing Airbnbs to choose from. If you need help seeking one out, I’m more than happy to help.
EAT & DRINK
Early June: if I can talk you into going to any restaurant in Paris, please let it be this one. Just one block off Canal Saint-Martin on a quiet street, Early June is a tiny spot that hosts a rotation of up-and-coming chefs. I went on my birthday last year; the chef in residence was a Turkish guy exactly my age, and his menu blew me away. Other chefs have come from Japan, Ireland, Argentina, you name it. It’s a truly enchanting space that is so memorable, and I trust anything ordered here to be a winner. Order one of their Lutéce cocktails, then some great wine, and follow your heart with the menu.
*note: Early June does not take reservations, so you’re going to have to walk in. But trust me, this is a gift, because when they quote you that hour wait, you have a prime amount of time to pick up a bottle of wine and enjoy it along the Canal before they summon you back to feast. I love waiting and earning my table more than anything else.
LouLou Montmarte a design-forward, seasonal wine bar tucked behind Le Sacre Couer. It’s the perfect spot for an afternoon glass and snack while exploring Monmarte (there’s much more to see on the backside of the hill!).
Haikara Izakaya I love an Izakaya spot, and this casual bar is so pleasant for snacks and a few bevs while in the Canal Saint Martin area.
Lolo Cave à Manger such a fun wine bar pouring interesting bottles and serving up small bites. Stop by for an afternoon drink or swing by later in the evening, when this becomes a bit of a nightlife spot.
Le Bon Georges is chic bistro in the 9th and a great place to stop while exploring the area. There’s a more formal restaurant experience, but I recommend swinging by the “pub” section for a more casual meal.
Delicatessen La Cave another great wine bar with yummy snacks.
Candelaria I discovered this speakeasy when I was literally sixteen, because we were wandering around starving and I innocently suggested we stop into this cheap-looking taco spot for a bite. When I asked where to find the restroom, I was silently directed to open a mangy little door and instead walked into the coolest, dark bar serving up fantastic cocktails. They had me fooled! That said, the tacos are actually quite delicious, just make sure to shimmy your way to the back for a bev afterwards.
Miznon is a nice Mediterranean café to pop into for lunch when you want something vegetable forward and healthy-ish. They have a few locations around the city.
Chez Julien: a chic and classic bistro.
Le Syndicat this bar looks unassuming from the street, but by nightfall they bring a few tables outside and this becomes a spot. It’s the perfect bar when you want to go out and have some social drinks without “going out.” The cocktails are pretty stellar, too.
Septime La Cave listen, if you can get into Septime, you have my hand in marriage. Otherwise, try out their neighboring wine bar.
Le Clown Bar natural wine and roast chicken, s’il vous plait.
OCTAVE is a wine shop just by Canal Saint-Martin. This is where you’re going to pick up a fun bottle to sip alongside the Canal while you wait for your table at Early June. They’ll even open your bottle for you and provide you with cups. Pro-tip: there’s a supermarché just across the street…Lays and Jambon go pretty well with wine and a sunset.
Breizh Café in Le Marais is iconic, and the #1 place I recommend for crêpes in Paris. It’s a can’t miss, and casual enough for breakfast, lunch, or a snack.
Cafe de Floré I don’t wanna hear any hate on this one. No matter if it’s basic, if you’ve never been to Paris you need to come here for at least a drink and some people watching.
Le Mary Celeste I actually haven’t been here yet but it’s top of my list for next visit. Please give it a try for me if you’re in town!
Déviant & Vivant 2 are two restaurants in the 9th from the same chef that I am absolutely dying to try. The “vibes,” for lack of a better word, seem impeccable, and I’m vying for a seat at their bar, where you watch the chefs do their thing across the glow of massive, melted candles.
TO-DO
My favorite classic museums in Paris are Musée D’Orsay, Musée de l’Orangerie, and Musée Rodin. You really can’t go wrong.
Galerie Marcilhac is fun to pop into, and there are plenty more to explore in Saint Germain and Le Marais. Fondation Cartier and Fondation Louis Vuitton have very cool exhibitions too. I hate Centre Pompidou, 10/10 don’t recommend.
In terms of parks, Jardin du Luxembourg is so beautiful and a great place to post up and unwind after some walking. Jardins des Tuileries is magical and always a must-see, plus its usually convenient to cut through en route to your next destination. Similarly, the gardens at Palais Royal are pleasant to explore.
Strolling around Montmarte is an activity in itself, the area is just stunning and one of a kind. Of course make sure to peep into Le Sacre Couer and take in the best views of the city.
SHOPPING
Limousine Vintage I found my favorite vintage belt here in the fall, on a whim while we waited for dinner. They have an amazing selection and stay open pretty late.
Opulence Vintage great vintage with older designer pieces.
Odetta Vintage lots of beautiful accessories and jewelery here!
Palace Callas guess what? More vintage…they have some trendier and current brands here that are just a few seasons old.
Celia Darling consignment shop in the 9th. They have weird hours so check that they’re open before you make the trek.
Miista the prettiest shoes. Sure, you can order this brand off Revolve, but the selection here is divine.
Timeless Pearly I am so mad at myself for not realizing you have to make an appointment at this super fun and chic jewlery store when I was last in Paris. Everything is custom, colorful, and unique - I am obsessed with all of their pieces. Make sure to reach out ahead of time!
Astier de Villatte is an amazing home and fragrance store. Swing by for candles, creams, perfumes, even a mug. My favorite perfume is from here and it’s one a kind - a.k.a I never touch it in an attempt to preserve it!
YOUR 72 HOUR ITINERARY
Paris can be overwhelming, there’s so much to see and do. Hopefully this little 72 hour itinerary I recently developed for a friend can help inspire your planning!
DAY 1: Assuming you took an evening flight from the U.S, you’re arriving in the morning [completely delusional]. Make sure to request early check-in from your hotel so you can try and rest. If that’s not an option, grab a huge cup of coffee and take it easy today.
Explore Le Marais
Lunch at Miznon, Café Charlot, or Parcelles. If you’re willing to wait a little, check out Chez Janou, it’s much easier to get in during the day than at night, and who doesn’t want chocolate mousse at lunch?
Afternoon walk back to hotel for some rest
Early dinner at La Renommée or Chez Julien, comforting and classic.
DAY 2:
Coffee & walk along the Seine to reach the central area for a museum morning.
Musée d’Orsay, cross the river, then Musée de l’Orangerie. Tag on Musée Rodin if you so please.
Walk back east past Notre Dame towards Saint Germain for lunch at Bon Pourcain, or Café de Flore
Walk around Jardin du Luxembourg, then explore and shop around Saint Germain. Head home mid-afternoon to save some evening time
Before dinner, you’re going to head over to Canal Saint-Martin to explore a bit. Put your name down at Early June, you know the drill by now. There are plenty of great restaurants around here as alternatives, like Åke. For a nightcap, swing by Le Syndicat.
DAY 3:
Walk or take the Metro over to Pigalle, and trek your way through Montmarte up to Le Sacre Couer.
Lunch at LouLou Montmartre, then explore the surrounding area. Once you’ve seen enough, walk back south through Pigalle or Le Marais. The walk is never as far it sounds. If you need an afternoon snack, may I suggest a burger from Dumbo?
Pick your own adventure in the afternoon too, if you want. This is a great time to venture to Fondation Cartier or Fondation Louis Vuitton.
Dinner at Chez Julien, Deviant, or Vivant 2. Maybe head to Candelaria or Lolo for a drink afterwards.
That’s all, mes amis! Hope you enjoyed my little guide. If you have any questions, suggestions, or additional recommendations, I’m here with too many ideas to share.
xx,
The Experience Hound